What is the first defence you teach against a hook punch and why this technique??
Hook Punch
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rutherford
Master Black Belt
Keep your hands up. 
Its of primary importance, and a good guard will stop many of the shots you don't even see coming.
Its of primary importance, and a good guard will stop many of the shots you don't even see coming.
OP
OP
Now that is always good advice
Coupled with evasion, I teach two primary defenses against the hook. The first is your basic side block (arm extends sideways from the center of the body, forming a near-vertical bar), and the other is an covering elbow beside the head.
Garth Barnard
Yellow Belt
In answer to the question; Your hands should be up in a 'Passive Stance' (or 'The Fence' as coined by Geoff Thompson).
From the Passive Stance we only use one type of cover, that being The Crazy Monkey as devised by Rodney 'Chico' King.
Once the Crazy Monkey is utilised, momentarily, the distance - albeit small - can be closed down using Forward Drive. It's then just a matter of 'going to town' the prefered target at that given time, with vehemence and conviction.
The Crazy Monkey is very similar to most peoples startle/flinch response, making it a very natural position to get into involuntary. The Crazy Monkey also allows for a very easy transition into counter attack.
In my experience blocks, per se, don't and won't work in a physical confrontation. Even I've put a shin through a baseball bat with ease, so a forearm isn't going to be to much trouble. As for a block stopping a hook punch - no chance! A block may parry/deflect a strike, if you're lucky, but it certainly won't stop it.
On the other hand; A defencive manoeuvre that intercepts an arm, say at the bicep, mid swing, may also work, but I would class this technique as an 'interception', rather than a block.
Just my 2p (2c).
From the Passive Stance we only use one type of cover, that being The Crazy Monkey as devised by Rodney 'Chico' King.
Once the Crazy Monkey is utilised, momentarily, the distance - albeit small - can be closed down using Forward Drive. It's then just a matter of 'going to town' the prefered target at that given time, with vehemence and conviction.
The Crazy Monkey is very similar to most peoples startle/flinch response, making it a very natural position to get into involuntary. The Crazy Monkey also allows for a very easy transition into counter attack.
In my experience blocks, per se, don't and won't work in a physical confrontation. Even I've put a shin through a baseball bat with ease, so a forearm isn't going to be to much trouble. As for a block stopping a hook punch - no chance! A block may parry/deflect a strike, if you're lucky, but it certainly won't stop it.
On the other hand; A defencive manoeuvre that intercepts an arm, say at the bicep, mid swing, may also work, but I would class this technique as an 'interception', rather than a block.
Just my 2p (2c).
Em MacIntosh
3rd Black Belt
I would use a stop-hit to the chin or slip and jab to the groin (if we're in the ring, I'm probably toast...I'm not a boxer).
kidswarrior
Senior Master
The classic boxer's hook is a very short punch counting on the body to deliver the power (which it does well, when used by a trained boxer 
). But my point is, the guy has to be pretty close to use this, which is why I teach first for the student to control the distance. If the opponent is close enough to hook me, he's too close and I should already be making a preemptive move, kinda like Em said. If he throws a long 'hook' (or haymaker), then as jks said, a knife hand block or even a cutting block (using my arm on the meat of his upper arm) would be what I would expect students to go to.
). But my point is, the guy has to be pretty close to use this, which is why I teach first for the student to control the distance. If the opponent is close enough to hook me, he's too close and I should already be making a preemptive move, kinda like Em said. If he throws a long 'hook' (or haymaker), then as jks said, a knife hand block or even a cutting block (using my arm on the meat of his upper arm) would be what I would expect students to go to.
Em MacIntosh
3rd Black Belt
I'm not good at infighting with just fists but you have to find a happy medium between covering up and throwing punches that count more than his . Sorry if it sounds obvious. I'd try to get back to my more comfortable range. On the street, I'd go for the clinch and the ear bite, lol.
zDom
Senior Master
I was thinking along the same lines as the posters above.
If someone is close enough to hook punch, then I can get a LOT of penetration with my jab or reverse punch
Not to mention a front or side kick, which could (in addition to making them say "ooomph!") push them back out of hook range.
If someone is close enough to hook punch, then I can get a LOT of penetration with my jab or reverse punch
Not to mention a front or side kick, which could (in addition to making them say "ooomph!") push them back out of hook range.
still learning
Senior Master
Hello, (first defence )-Awareness...of the sitution...AVOIDANCE...IS SMART.....Running aways is wise too! ....but if you get into a fight?
Your EGO/Pride....needs some more training to be humble and kind!
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IF NO choice ....off course any type of blocking (with hands/arms)is smart, body weaving, ducking if to the head?
Hand's/Arms's are always be up to protect your head (boxers stance)! Elbows tuck in to protect the ribs' (lean away).
Stand back....if possible helps too! You will need to be aware the hook is coming (most times the hook is quicker). Breath out!
A hook punch to the kidney ...will often lead to a Knock-out.......be aware of this!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
The word HOOKER/Hookers ...came from a General Hooker who was sent to Europe and since his soldiers needed women he hired them. Civil war time.
Later as the General Hooker return to USA....the girls follow/hired in America too.....were later called "Hooker's girls"
My wife's neighbor was a decended of General Hooker. She past away a few year's ago.
If hit by a HOOK punch or caught with a HOOKER ....either way..it will cost you!
Awareness of the sitution....Avoidance... is better.
by: Hook on fishing .........Aloha
For a long-range hook, or haymaker, "counter jab" or "stop punch". For a short range hook, circle to the side, around your opponent.
I used to box, before getting into Karate, and my first fight was against a guy who liked to hook, rather than cross.
He started with some long range hooks (not a full haymaker), which I easily stopped with a "stop hit" someone mentioned earlier.
It works like this: A quick jab with your left, while rolling your thumb to the ground will raise your shoulder up and guard your face. Meanwhile, tuck your chin to "hide" behind the wall your shoulder just gave you. This will cover your temple to your shoulder.(It's bad form for karate, but works well against a puncher.) This should hit them hard in the nose, while catching their forearm against your upper shoulder. If you have more time (a haymaker) outside block with your palm forward, then jab from that position, so you don't stop your motion. Be ready to suck your elbow back into your body, though, because you just opened up your ribcage to attack. So don't leave you jab "floating" out there, but bring it back as fast or faster than you sent it out.
When he realized his nose was going to get broken if he kept that up, (in fact, at that point he thought it was already broken) he switched to a "short range" hooking strategy:
Usually he would charge me, get close, then start hitting me one-two with the short, powerful hooks, and his forehead almost buried in my chest. I got clobbered, even while covering up, because with his elbows bent, he could reach around my guard easily, and hit me in the temples, which rattles you, and screws with your balance.
Afterwards I talked to some of the more experienced guys, and then tried it, and it works. The answer they gave me was this:
Do what I did for the long-range hooks, the "stop-jab", or "counter-jab". But if he charges for the short-range hooks, step to the side, like a bullfighter, and try to knock him off balance.
The short-range jabs only work if your opponent is directly in front of you, and since my opponent usually has to charge me to get there, he's committed to a certain "line of attack". If you step off line, you can get on his hip. From there you have a clean shot at his temple. Or even better, now that I know some throws, locks, etc. -- on my opponent's hip is a great place to be!
The problem is that most of us are hard-wired to either stand our ground, or retreat straight back, with is exactly the worst thing to do against a short-range hook. You have to train your body to be able to shift sideways, or back-and-sideways. It's just not a natural movement, especially if you're a big guy like me. I think the FMA stuff works the "triangles" which are great for this sort of thing.
I used to box, before getting into Karate, and my first fight was against a guy who liked to hook, rather than cross.
He started with some long range hooks (not a full haymaker), which I easily stopped with a "stop hit" someone mentioned earlier.
It works like this: A quick jab with your left, while rolling your thumb to the ground will raise your shoulder up and guard your face. Meanwhile, tuck your chin to "hide" behind the wall your shoulder just gave you. This will cover your temple to your shoulder.(It's bad form for karate, but works well against a puncher.) This should hit them hard in the nose, while catching their forearm against your upper shoulder. If you have more time (a haymaker) outside block with your palm forward, then jab from that position, so you don't stop your motion. Be ready to suck your elbow back into your body, though, because you just opened up your ribcage to attack. So don't leave you jab "floating" out there, but bring it back as fast or faster than you sent it out.
When he realized his nose was going to get broken if he kept that up, (in fact, at that point he thought it was already broken) he switched to a "short range" hooking strategy:
Usually he would charge me, get close, then start hitting me one-two with the short, powerful hooks, and his forehead almost buried in my chest. I got clobbered, even while covering up, because with his elbows bent, he could reach around my guard easily, and hit me in the temples, which rattles you, and screws with your balance.
Afterwards I talked to some of the more experienced guys, and then tried it, and it works. The answer they gave me was this:
Do what I did for the long-range hooks, the "stop-jab", or "counter-jab". But if he charges for the short-range hooks, step to the side, like a bullfighter, and try to knock him off balance.
The short-range jabs only work if your opponent is directly in front of you, and since my opponent usually has to charge me to get there, he's committed to a certain "line of attack". If you step off line, you can get on his hip. From there you have a clean shot at his temple. Or even better, now that I know some throws, locks, etc. -- on my opponent's hip is a great place to be!
The problem is that most of us are hard-wired to either stand our ground, or retreat straight back, with is exactly the worst thing to do against a short-range hook. You have to train your body to be able to shift sideways, or back-and-sideways. It's just not a natural movement, especially if you're a big guy like me. I think the FMA stuff works the "triangles" which are great for this sort of thing.
TheOriginalName
Blue Belt
Hey there all....
I'm only a yellow belt - so my experience in MAs is relatively small.
The other night i learnt what i thought was a great block for the "hay maker".
When you see the punch coming you raise both arms vertical and push forward into the forarm. Contact should be at the same time and with the outerside of your arm.
The great thing is you are using your forarm in the strongest manner - that is with the depth towards you (short side hitting). This give the largest bending strength (i could bore you with the engineering details of this .....but really you don't need that much sleep). Basically no matter how they contact your arms theirs will break first.
It is probably not an effective block against someone who is well trained in MAs but against that drunk bloke down at the pub it would be great!!
I hope i've done it justice with my explenation - i have to say one of the best feeling blocks i've done. I even used it to block a couple of roundhouse kicks at sparing the other day...... that's how much i love it.
But there are probably others out there with a lot more "smartness" to them.....and yes, my language skill have left me for the day.
I'm only a yellow belt - so my experience in MAs is relatively small.
The other night i learnt what i thought was a great block for the "hay maker".
When you see the punch coming you raise both arms vertical and push forward into the forarm. Contact should be at the same time and with the outerside of your arm.
The great thing is you are using your forarm in the strongest manner - that is with the depth towards you (short side hitting). This give the largest bending strength (i could bore you with the engineering details of this .....but really you don't need that much sleep). Basically no matter how they contact your arms theirs will break first.
It is probably not an effective block against someone who is well trained in MAs but against that drunk bloke down at the pub it would be great!!
I hope i've done it justice with my explenation - i have to say one of the best feeling blocks i've done. I even used it to block a couple of roundhouse kicks at sparing the other day...... that's how much i love it.
But there are probably others out there with a lot more "smartness" to them.....and yes, my language skill have left me for the day.
what I was tuaght was: Hands up, boxing style. when a hook starts coming in, lean my body towards it, and at the same time, lower my head/tuck my chin down, and "thumb off" the hook. Thumb off is turning the hand so that the palm turns away from face and instead towards the back. This works well enough with gloves, not sure about bare handed.
Mr. E
Blue Belt
What I do comes down to one of two things.
Let us assume that both of us are right-handed. He throws a right hook with either his right foot stepping forward or staying back.
One option is to step back to my right rear while I lift my arms to cover my perimeter. He really can't reach me due to my adding to the distance, but my arms are out there to deal with any variations he throws at me.
Another option is to step slightly in and move my weak side arm against the inside of his blow. I do not want to deal with his fist itself since it may hold a weapon I have not seen. Instead I go for a blow/block as close to his trunk as I can, nailing his attack without contesting the end result of its power.
From there things get complicated and I can't give a straight answer as to what to do since it all depends on what he does.
Let us assume that both of us are right-handed. He throws a right hook with either his right foot stepping forward or staying back.
One option is to step back to my right rear while I lift my arms to cover my perimeter. He really can't reach me due to my adding to the distance, but my arms are out there to deal with any variations he throws at me.
Another option is to step slightly in and move my weak side arm against the inside of his blow. I do not want to deal with his fist itself since it may hold a weapon I have not seen. Instead I go for a blow/block as close to his trunk as I can, nailing his attack without contesting the end result of its power.
From there things get complicated and I can't give a straight answer as to what to do since it all depends on what he does.
Cabalcincotiros
White Belt
In boxing, ducking a hook is used as a means of escaping blows and allowing the defender to remain in range for a counterattack. It is accomplished by dropping the body forward under swings & hooks (hands or feet) thrown at the head. It is executed primarily from the waist. Protect you head at all times with your hands. Sidestepping may be used in conjunction with the duck as the two go hand in hand and may be refferred to as the "drop shift". It is used to gain either the outside or inside guard position and is, therefore, a very useful technique in in-fighting or grappling. If you have access to Eskrima/Arnis de Mano training, then I suggest you look into this for more on sidestepping technique or seek some training in Boxing to become familiar with defense against the hook punch. Western boxing and Eskrima are great supplements to any training in self defense.
Best regards,
Cabalcincotiros
Best regards,
Cabalcincotiros
Em MacIntosh
3rd Black Belt
Slip in a jab to the groin and this is what I meant by a "slip".
Odin
2nd Black Belt
a streetfighters hook?....i would simply guard with my left hand and take a step forward, he should then land with his forearm rather then his first ( keep your guard up incase you have the distance wrong ) and then i would hit him..possiably an uppercut since he would be quite close.
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