The AR15

Archangel M

Archangel M

Senior Master
Any AR owners/afficinadios out there? Want to talk platforms, manufacturers, components, techniques?

While I have carried (read-been issued) a number of versions and makes over the years, I currently own a Bushmaster. Some "AR snobs" turn their noses up at the Bushies, but mines been as reliable as can be. Im sort of jonesing for an expensive optic vs the cheaper TruGlo Im running, but since the cheapie works so well I keep spending the money on ammo or reloading gear. Im thinking of upgrading to a BCM carrier group (even though the BM is working fine) or at least an extractor upgrade kit and throwing in an H Buffer.
 
I used to own a Bushmaster XM-15 E2S, which was a no-frills, A2-style 16" barrel carbine.

It was a great rifle, having excellent accuracy, and being utterly reliable with my favorite target load (Winchester Q3131A, 55 grain FMJ). Forged frame (not cast), chrome lining, etc., all made for a reliable and durable rifle.

The only complaint was the trigger, but I took care of that by adding a Jewell trigger unit. I really couldn't tell the difference in shootability between my Bushmaster, versus a Colt model.


I wish I hadn't sold it, but money was tight, and I needed quick cash at the time.


I also owned a Sabre Defence carbine. While some people may scoff at an AR rifle using a cast polycarbonate lower, I actually found it to be a really nice shooter, and the durability seemed to be quite good. Given how tough those polymers are, I have no doubt that it would have lasted many more years, if I still owned it.

The rifle had an A3-style flat top, and also came with a removable carrying handle / iron sights top. At the time, it was easily 150+ cheaper than any of the other well known brands (DPMS, Bushmaster).
 
From what I gather, much of the Bushmaster hate stems from poor staking of the gas key.

For those not experienced with the AR operating system, the bolt; the part that makes contact with the round and locks it into the chamber and extracts the spent casing, is housed in a "carrier". This carrier is operated by gas pressure that is created when a bullet is fired. This gas drives the carrier back...extracting the spent casing. A spring system pushes the carrier back forward, feeding a round for the next firing cycle. This video shows the process:

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On top of this carrier is what is called a "gas key"... its a metal tube that accepts the gas that pushes the carrier backwards. It's bolted to the carrier with two bolts/screws.

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These bolts need to be "staked" to prevent them from backing out while being slammed around by continuous firing. When that happens the key loosens up, too much gas is bled off from under it and the weapon wont cycle properly, causing mis-feeds, jams, etc.

There are various methods of staking. The one I show is my Bushmaster staking...which some experts dont think is sufficient. Most "pros" like to have metal on both sides of each bolt pushed up onto the bolt head.

picture.php


The philosophy of the Bushmaster haters then continues... "If Bushmaster cuts corners there, where else do they cut corners?" Fair enough I guess, but it seems like an easy fix. I have yet to see any gas bleed issues with any Bushies I have ever fired.
 
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I have the Bushmaster M4A3 ... Love it. Only thing missing is the 3-round burst. Thinking of getting a Trijicon TA31... dont know why... too expensive.

but when the zombies attack............................................................

:snipe:
 
This is the latest rage in combative AR manipulation.

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*a (very) little adult language if you are easily offended
 
do you have any magpul accessories?

I just have PMAGs but have been looking at the different stocks and grips.
 
Another interesting topic for the AR-phile is that of buffer weight. The buffer is a counterweight that works with the buffer spring to absorb the recoiling bolt assembly and then push it back into battery. It can be seen in this video in the area of the guns stock:

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The buffer comes in different weight classifications and lengths. The buffer for a carbine is shorter than that of a full sized rifle. Buffers typically come in CARBINE/H/H2 and RIFLE sizes from lightest to heaviest.

Why should I care about buffer weights? Well... hotter loads and shorter barrels with shorter gas tubes result in greater operating pressures. This means that the bolt assembly is cycled faster. Sometimes it can cycle so fast that the bolt out-speeds the spring in the magazine that is trying to push the next bullet up into the chamber. This can be a big problem in automatic fire. The result is mis-feeds (or no feed at all) and more wear and tear on the guns parts.

A heaver buffer slows the system down and increases "lock time", which is the amount of time between when the round is fired and when the bolt begins to move rearward. This aids in extraction of the spent case and the heavier counterweight can reduce felt recoil. The following vid is for comparison:

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One has to be careful that he/she doesn't go too heavy though, because then the bolt carrier may not move back far enough to strip the next round from the magazine. It may also not lock back on empty or cause other timing issues.
 
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C:\Documents and Settings\npeterson\My Documents\My Pictures\BlackBerry
I really like this gun/weapon system. When I started in the military, Security Police (1994) I was issued an M-16A1 complete with triangular handguards and full auto capable.

From there I graduated to the M-16A2 and was limited to burst but the Air Force decided to send me to Combat Arms School so I could learn to detail strip, assemble and modify existing weapons. I have used this training by building three AR-15's. Two were Patrol guns I used when I was a Colorado Police Officer and even as a Narc for warrant service. The third was for long range shooting; all are Frankenstein guns built up from the parts I wanted to assemble and use, some of these were Bushy parts and outside of a barrel I swapped out all the Bushmaster parts have worked fine and I would/will use them again in the future on my next build.
 
New parts...:ultracool I got a removable carrying handle for my carbine and a flip up front sight post for my SPR wanna-be.

I took the flip up rear off of my carbine and put in on the SPR with the addition of the new flip up front sight (dialed them in) and put the scope back on, I needed, and luckily had available, 1/2" risers for the scope (and dialed that it).

The carbine got the brand new carrying handle/A2 style sight and it all went to the range. I still have the rail on the carbine with the vertical grip and surefire light.

I now know that I need a rail for my SPR and a better sling (and a collapsible stock) and a three point sling for my carbine. The SPR is a Double Star lower (with other parts) and the carbine has a DPMS lower (with other parts).

These rifles are fun-fun-fun...
 
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