I'm Looking to buy a 48" White Wax Wood Stick

[tapadista]

I practice original tapado. I've been in the US for a year and still can't seem to find good sticks for my art. I've been reading about white wax wood and am intrested in aquiring it for tapado. It is stong, light and will not break or shatter ( a common problem with hardwood sticks). I've tried dowels htat you can buy at home depot with unsatisfactory results. If you would like to see what kind of abuse the stick will take, check out "Tapado" videos on you tube. Search "original tapado" or user "Ka69er".

I would like to try white wax wood. Where can i source raw white wax wood? I see a lot of commericalized ones, but i'm sure there is somewhere i can get it cheaper than $19.99. If anyone could help me out, that would be great.

 

[Doc_Jude]

I practice original tapado. I've been in the US for a year and still can't seem to find good sticks for my art. I've been reading about white wax wood and am intrested in aquiring it for tapado. It is stong, light and will not break or shatter ( a common problem with hardwood sticks). I've tried dowels htat you can buy at home depot with unsatisfactory results. If you would like to see what kind of abuse the stick will take, check out "Tapado" videos on you tube. Search "original tapado" or user "Ka69er".

I would like to try white wax wood. Where can i source raw white wax wood? I see a lot of commericalized ones, but i'm sure there is somewhere i can get it cheaper than $19.99. If anyone could help me out, that would be great.

Where are you? The Cold Steel Challenge is coming up soon in Ventura California, & they're going to have another parking lot sale. I got two 4' Wax Wood staffs there in the spring. If you have access, go down there & get some.

 

[Flying Crane]

Yeah, where are you? Lots of suppliers offer them, Brendan Lai in San Francisco has them and they can probably ship to you. But $20 is not a bad price if it is a good piece. Also, are you looking for something thin and light, or thicker and more stout? That will also affect the price. Probably 6-7 feet long is more standard, as these are generally used for staff and spear, so you might not have a choice but to buy extra long, and cut to your needed length.

 

[Flying Crane]

another thought: wax wood is tough and flexible, but can certainly splinter and break, especially after repeated striking. If you are practicing a Philippine art and the sticks will be repeatedly struck and abused, expect them to break at some point.

 

[Brian R. VanCise]

another thought: wax wood is tough and flexible, but can certainly splinter and break, especially after repeated striking. If you are practicing a Philippine art and the sticks will be repeatedly struck and abused, expect them to break at some point.

I am not impressed with wax wood they splinter way to easily for my liking. Best to use rattan for striking with other people and hardwood for solo practice.

 

[MJS]

I practice original tapado. I've been in the US for a year and still can't seem to find good sticks for my art. I've been reading about white wax wood and am intrested in aquiring it for tapado. It is stong, light and will not break or shatter ( a common problem with hardwood sticks). I've tried dowels htat you can buy at home depot with unsatisfactory results. If you would like to see what kind of abuse the stick will take, check out "Tapado" videos on you tube. Search "original tapado" or user "Ka69er".

I would like to try white wax wood. Where can i source raw white wax wood? I see a lot of commericalized ones, but i'm sure there is somewhere i can get it cheaper than $19.99. If anyone could help me out, that would be great.

Not sure how far you're willing to go for sticks, but these are some excellent sticks. Ron is a good guy. I've known him for a while. I have a few pairs of these sticks and they're still holding up strong. They're slightly longer than your average stick and they are a bit heavier. Working with them for a while, and you'll definately start to feel a burn in the arms/forearms.

Mike

 

[Flying Crane]

I am not impressed with wax wood they splinter way to easily for my liking. Best to use rattan for striking with other people and hardwood for solo practice.

Yes, for the right purpose they work very well, but for the wrong thing, they just will not stand up.

One thing I do to toughen wax wood is sand it, burn it with a torch to the point where the surface is darkened, then rub several coats of linseed oil or dutch oil into it. The oil will cure and harden, and this gives the wood some extra stiffness and hardens it up a bit, it seems to stand up to abuse a bit better.

But I agree, I'm not sure waxwood is a great choice for Philippene systems

 

[Doc_Jude]

Yes, for the right purpose they work very well, but for the wrong thing, they just will not stand up.

One thing I do to toughen wax wood is sand it, burn it with a torch to the point where the surface is darkened, then rub several coats of linseed oil or dutch oil into it. The oil will cure and harden, and this gives the wood some extra stiffness and hardens it up a bit, it seems to stand up to abuse a bit better.

But I agree, I'm not sure waxwood is a great choice for Philippene systems

I bought a bunch of 22"-24" wax wood sticks, sanded them down & soaked them in linseed oil for two days, set them up to dry and sanded them down again. They bled a little more oil for a few days, & I just wipe them down & sand them a little. We beat the hell out of them with no problems. I mean really beat the hell out of them. We practice Decuerdas Escrima, a Filipino system, & we also use them for Silat. Hard impacts against wood, & aluminum trainers also.

 

[Flying Crane]

I bought a bunch of 22"-24" wax wood sticks, sanded them down & soaked them in linseed oil for two days, set them up to dry and sanded them down again. They bled a little more oil for a few days, & I just wipe them down & sand them a little. We beat the hell out of them with no problems. I mean really beat the hell out of them. We practice Decuerdas Escrima, a Filipino system, & we also use them for Silat. Hard impacts against wood, & aluminum trainers also.

cool, I didn't know they could take that much. Definitely requires the treatment tho, to toughen them up.

 

[arnisador]

What are tapado sticks usually made of? Not rattan?

 

[Doc_Jude]

cool, I didn't know they could take that much. Definitely requires the treatment tho, to toughen them up.

Oh yeah. I can't think of a wood that wouldn't benefit tremendously from the right oil treatment (linseed or tung oil being the best IMO). Hickory, Ash, White Oak, Purple Heart, or any of the more exotic hard woods. A little oil goes along way!

 

[Flying Crane]

Oh yeah. I can't think of a wood that wouldn't benefit tremendously from the right oil treatment (linseed or tung oil being the best IMO). Hickory, Ash, White Oak, Purple Heart, or any of the more exotic hard woods. A little oil goes along way!

What do you think of Dutch Oil? I've read that it cures to a higher hardness than linseed oil. I've finished most of my staffs and spears with linseed oil, but I've got one I did with Dutch. The Dutch doesn't seem to darken over time so it doesn't become as pretty. I don't tend to smash my staffs together much so I haven't really tested the hardness fully. Just curious if you've experimented with it.

 

[Doc_Jude]

What do you think of Dutch Oil? I've read that it cures to a higher hardness than linseed oil. I've finished most of my staffs and spears with linseed oil, but I've got one I did with Dutch. The Dutch doesn't seem to darken over time so it doesn't become as pretty. I don't tend to smash my staffs together much so I haven't really tested the hardness fully. Just curious if you've experimented with it.

No I haven't used Dutch oil to be honest. I have mixed other oils into the final coat, such as essential oils to make the stick smell good. Flower oils or citrus oils are great for those that just don't like linseed's smell.

 

[Flying Crane]

No I haven't used Dutch oil to be honest. I have mixed other oils into the final coat, such as essential oils to make the stick smell good. Flower oils or citrus oils are great for those that just don't like linseed's smell.

Never thought of that. Thanks!

 

[tapadista]

Wow, great input guys. I'l try the wax wood and cure it and see what happens. We traditionally use the stalk of the coffee tree. the diameter would usually be in the 1" to 1.5" at the base and taper a little at the end depending on the best part of the tree. I'm in Dallas, TX. Now i just need to get some wax wood.

 

[tapadista]

Oh yeah. I can't think of a wood that wouldn't benefit tremendously from the right oil treatment (linseed or tung oil being the best IMO). Hickory, Ash, White Oak, Purple Heart, or any of the more exotic hard woods. A little oil goes along way!

Hmm, btw, wer can i get the oils? Home depot or someplace like that? and, what exactly is your process and technique for soaking them? Do you just stick them in a pool of oil? How long is the drying out process?

 

[Flying Crane]

You could try calling Brendan Lai's in San Francisco, their phone number is 415-626-8850, and see if they can ship to you.

Tell them that Michael Schaefer sent you. I know them well enough, they might treat you extra nice

.

Or else, send me a PM, I might be able to sacrifice a staff for you. I've got a couple extras, I just finished oiling one, and if the size and dimensions are close enough, I could cut it to length and send to you. Not sure how much I would charge you, but we could discuss it a bit. I'll give it a few more coats of oil to be safe, and you can always add more later. I don't know how Doc Jude soaks them, but I just rub it in with a rag and let it dry, then repeat. I think it helps if you warm the oil a bit first.

 

[Flying Crane]

Hmm, btw, wer can i get the oils? Home depot or someplace like that? and, what exactly is your process and technique for soaking them? Do you just stick them in a pool of oil? How long is the drying out process?

any hardware store should have it, as well as some hobby and art stores. Artists often mix it with paint for various reasons. There are a couple different types of linseed oil, depending on how it is processed. Some of them don't cure as well and stay greasy. I think it's Boiled Linseed oil that you want, tho I don't remember for sure. I'll have to check the label on my can at home.

 

[Doc_Jude]

You could try calling Brendan Lai's in San Francisco, their phone number is 415-626-8850, and see if they can ship to you.

Tell them that Michael Schaefer sent you. I know them well enough, they might treat you extra nice

.

Or else, send me a PM, I might be able to sacrifice a staff for you. I've got a couple extras, I just finished oiling one, and if the size and dimensions are close enough, I could cut it to length and send to you. Not sure how much I would charge you, but we could discuss it a bit. I'll give it a few more coats of oil to be safe, and you can always add more later. I don't know how Doc Jude soaks them, but I just rub it in with a rag and let it dry, then repeat. I think it helps if you warm the oil a bit first.

I found the best way to do it is put the sticks into large PVC pipe with something on top to hold them under the oil. I use a rock. I don't like handling the linseed oil too much since its supposedly carcinogenic.

I like doing it that way better, it gives the oil time to soak in, & then I just sand it a few times & it works well for me. Though, sanding and hand applying works well too. I've done that with Tung oil & it worked great.

Oh, & for the oil, check the hardware store, or paint supply. Google Polymerized Linseed oil or Tung oil, they work great & are easy to get.

 

[Flying Crane]

I found the best way to do it is put the sticks into large PVC pipe with something on top to hold them under the oil. I use a rock. I don't like handling the linseed oil too much since its supposedly carcinogenic.

not a bad idea, but I'm usually preparing staffs approaching 7 feet. I'd need quite a lot of oil to fill that pipe, and a place to store it in the mean time.

I like doing it that way better, it gives the oil time to soak in, & then I just sand it a few times & it works well for me. Though, sanding and hand applying works well too. I've done that with Tung oil & it worked great.

I don't generally sand between coats, as I feel like I'm removing what I just applied. Instead, I sand first, then rub in several coats, let it cure overnight between coats. I just dampen a rag with oil and rub it in, it only takes a minute or two per coat. Wear rubber gloves, or at least disposable exam gloves, you can get about 50 for maybe $15 at walgreens, or at a hardware store, as I have also heard you don't want to really handle the oil with bare skin. I guess once it drys, it's OK, tho. Doc Jude, care to comment on that?

Another thing: oil soaked rags can spontaneously combust if you just toss them in the trash. I put them in a plastic bag and fill it with water before throwing it out.