Who surfs? Where? Lets talk about it!
Does anyone else on MT surf?
- Thread starter Makalakumu
- Start date
Just the net, dude. 
Xue Sheng
All weight is underside
Oh HERE we go another shamless "HEY!!! I live in Hawaii" thread
Nope never surfed and never wanted to, I never had the desire to troll for sharks and be the bait at the same time :uhyeah:
I am however considering snowboarding, does that count
another shamless "HEY!!! I live in Hawaii" thread Nope never surfed and never wanted to, I never had the desire to troll for sharks and be the bait at the same time :uhyeah:
I am however considering snowboarding, does that count
OP
- Thread Starter
- #4
Hawaii isn't the only place you can surf. Heck, I used to body surf on Lake Superior when the conditions were right and the waves were breaking regularly.
Right now, I'm just learning to ride a longboard. I can paddle out and catch waves okay. Getting up on the board is easier because of my MA training.
I mostly hang on breaks where the waves get no bigger then 3-6 feet. Any more then that and I get slammed. I'm just not that good yet.
There are some good breaks on the south shore of Oahu that are pretty consistent. Queen's, Canoes, White Plains, Barber's Point are mostly where I'm at.
The other day I scraped up my leg on the coral after a wipe out. That ended my surfing for a while. It's not a good idea to mix chumming with surfing.
Right now, I'm just learning to ride a longboard. I can paddle out and catch waves okay. Getting up on the board is easier because of my MA training.
I mostly hang on breaks where the waves get no bigger then 3-6 feet. Any more then that and I get slammed. I'm just not that good yet.
There are some good breaks on the south shore of Oahu that are pretty consistent. Queen's, Canoes, White Plains, Barber's Point are mostly where I'm at.
The other day I scraped up my leg on the coral after a wipe out. That ended my surfing for a while. It's not a good idea to mix chumming with surfing.
When I lived in California every morning we would hit the beach for some surfing, Huntington Beach and Laguna Beach has some great waves.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #6
Did anyone else find that their MA training helped with surfing?
I found that it helps my strength, stamina, and balance out on the waves. Also, with ukemi, I feel pretty comfortable falling. Except on coral. Thats like falling on a cheese grater.
I found that it helps my strength, stamina, and balance out on the waves. Also, with ukemi, I feel pretty comfortable falling. Except on coral. Thats like falling on a cheese grater.
yea my balance was always better whaen I was surfing.
JadecloudAlchemist
Master of Arts
I surf. My dad surfed and he taught me.
I surfed up and down Florida. My dad use to take me to Sebastian inlet and on the way up tell me about all the shark attack that happen there and then throw me in the water!!
I still surf now and I don't think I could live anywhere with out waves to at least look at.
I surfed up and down Florida. My dad use to take me to Sebastian inlet and on the way up tell me about all the shark attack that happen there and then throw me in the water!!
I still surf now and I don't think I could live anywhere with out waves to at least look at.
JadecloudAlchemist
Master of Arts
For Xue a shark story.
When I was surfing once there was shark swiming in the wave I was going to take. I saw him and I thought it looked pretty cool. I took the wave and said what ever happens happens. He was maybe 5-6ft
I am sure shark touched my leg a couple of times and the little fish jump out of the water next to you they must be running from something.
I once met Jacques-Yves Cousteau(I did not know who he was till later)
He said "don't be afraid of them...then again don't tease them"
When I was surfing once there was shark swiming in the wave I was going to take. I saw him and I thought it looked pretty cool. I took the wave and said what ever happens happens. He was maybe 5-6ft
I am sure shark touched my leg a couple of times and the little fish jump out of the water next to you they must be running from something.
I once met Jacques-Yves Cousteau(I did not know who he was till later)
He said "don't be afraid of them...then again don't tease them"
OP
- Thread Starter
- #12
One thing that we have to deal with out here in Hawaii is Localism...or surf gangs. Certain groups of locals feel that they are entitled to the waves on a break close to home and they sometimes threaten or physically beat you off the beach if you try to go out there. This really sucks because it pretty much limits anyone who wants to learn to a couple of public places where all of the tourists are also learning. One would think that you could call the cops and complain about this, but all they seem to do is take a report and ignore you. Perhaps they have better things to worry about then stupid surf punks beating up people over waves...but on the other hand I can see this getting out of hand pretty quick.
Does anyone else see this where they surf or is this just a Hawaii thing?
Does anyone else see this where they surf or is this just a Hawaii thing?
Xue Sheng
All weight is underside
It's not a good idea to mix chumming with surfing.
:lol:
And I'm sorry to hear about the leg, hope you recover quickly
JadecloudAlchemist
Master of Arts
Speaking of chumming
Sometimes fisherman would throw their lines in from the shore. So sometimes you get close to their lines.
Sometime tourist are swiming when you are surfing and you can hit them easy.
I have not met any surfer gangs. I body surfed before too. And free surfing is fun too.
Sometimes fisherman would throw their lines in from the shore. So sometimes you get close to their lines.
Sometime tourist are swiming when you are surfing and you can hit them easy.
I have not met any surfer gangs. I body surfed before too. And free surfing is fun too.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #15
No worries! Nothing like scraping up some skin and pouring saltwater on the wound!
Xue Sheng
All weight is underside
Now you see that RIGHT there is one of the reasons I do not even SWIM in the ocean anymore. I have this little problem with standing on the beach being one of the Apex species on the planet and then taking a few short steps to get into the water and becoming bait :uhyeah:
OP
- Thread Starter
- #17
Well, that certainly sounds prideful...
Xue Sheng
All weight is underside
Well, that certainly sounds prideful...
Well yeah
It was either Apex Species of Master of the planet and I was not sure which to go with but either way it is that whole becoming "bait" thing I have a problem with.
And if South Florida it would be worse, IMO, Sharks and Salt water Crocs now theres some fun for surfers, jet skiers, swimers, etc.
I won't go salt water Kayaking either because of stuff like this
And no surfing because of stuff like this
I did want to and still think about hopping in a white water kayak and shooting the rapids, rocks and such but I am NOT going in the ocean to kayak, swim or surf.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #19
Well, I learned from a super secret defense against shark technique from an old ninja master turned surfer...
Xue Sheng
All weight is underside
:asian: Then you are safe
You'll have to teach it to me sometime... I still won't go surfing.. but at least if I come across one on the beach I can handle him