- Nov 7, 2017
- Reaction score
- Southeast U.S.
I am still trying to figure out the inline responses. If this is all wrong, please let me know how to correct. ThanksThe OP did say he's not in any way DIY inclined...
Using a file takes a certain amount of finesse (if you disagree with that then use only a hand drill, a hacksaw and a file to make a 1" square hole in 3/8" plate and a corresponding 1" slug to fit it in any orientation, you have a tolerance of +0.0005"/-0 on the hole and +0/-0.0005" on the slug - do that and then tell me it's an easy tool that anyone can use)…
It we are getting technical, the only practical way to make a square hole with those tolerances in a steel plate is with a punch and die in a press. Yea, it could be done by hand but why? And what does any of that have to do with a Katana?
I have successfully controlled worn out J type Bridgeport milling machines to sharpens four edge diamond bit inserts with a tolerance 4 places below the decimal. It can be done repeatably but it is tough.
I wouldn't use a bastard either, it'll leave a 'catchy' finish - I'd be going for at least a 2nd cut if not finer. You're not after mass stock removal here, just minor reprofiling.
True, there are various grades of flat bastard files. It you are in a hurry, use a coarser file first, then go to a finer grade cut and lighten your pressure using long strokes to prevent whoops. To your reference above, when using a file, the pressure you apply directly affects how much material is removed and therefore the finish. I have dulled long blades before in this manner. It really isn't that hard. You just have to have some patience.]/QUOTE]
I'd disagree with that too - draw filing (file at 90° to direction of cut) would produce a much finer and more consistent finish.
I agree drawing at 90° at the finish would be best.
But that's by the by - if you're cack handed with a file on a slim blade it'll end up wavy at best, or saw tooth at worst.