Floor Mat Problems

dvcochran

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We have the very common Tatami tiles at two different schools. We have had an on again/off again problem with them bunching up at the seams mostly nearer the center of the floor. This seems to be worse in the summer. It also seems to be worse with new tiles. Usually I can put a couple of older tiles where the bunching up is occurring and it is better. Has anyone ran into the problem and how have you solved it?
 

skribs

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At my school, there is a small frame that goes around the mat.

Is it possible the mats are too light, or else the surface they are on is too smooth? You may want to try putting down something underneath them that has some texture and grip.
 

Dirty Dog

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I've never had that particular problem. But there's a rubbery shelf liner (I'm not able to recall what it's called right now) stuff that might help. Just put pieces down under the mats where they slide.
Or maybe some friction tape, like hockey players and skateboarders use?
 
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dvcochran

dvcochran

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At my school, there is a small frame that goes around the mat.

Is it possible the mats are too light, or else the surface they are on is too smooth? You may want to try putting down something underneath them that has some texture and grip.
The underlying floor is concrete. There is a pad similar to what goes underneath carpet intended to be a vapor/moisture barrier that provides good friction to reduce slippage. I have seen it used at several schools. The mats are 3' x 3' - 7/8" thick, WT regulation mats. It happens most in areas where we frequently line up for drills, where most the pushing/pulling is going on. One school has to problem more than the other so I wonder if is something to do with the floor even though they are both concrete.
You school never has the problem? The frame you mention; are you talking about how the tiles lock together?
 

Danny T

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I have one training area with puzzle mats 1 1/2 inches thick. Haven’t had any problems bunching.
Have been to numerous facilities with the thinner 3/4 and 1 inch mats where that happens. Then again I been to other’s which didn’t seem to have such a concern however their mats seemed to be more dense than the ones that bunch up.
Maybe it’s the density and thickness of the material.
 
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dvcochran

dvcochran

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I have one training area with puzzle mats 1 1/2 inches thick. Haven’t had any problems bunching.
Have been to numerous facilities with the thinner 3/4 and 1 inch mats where that happens. Then again I been to other’s which didn’t seem to have such a concern however their mats seemed to be more dense than the ones that bunch up.
Maybe it’s the density and thickness of the material.
Possibly. We are using the 7/8" thick WT regulation mats. Both schools have concrete floors. One has commercial carpet under the mats, the other a vapor/moisture barrier, carpet underlayment like material. The carpeted floor seems to have a worse problem. It always gets worse in the summer so I wonder if moisture (in the air?) has something to do with it.

I don't think I have seen interlocking tiles 1 1/2" think. Where did you get them from?
 
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Interesting discussion, I have recently decided to purchase some mats, and it would be great to get some recommendations.

Quality wise, what would be the best mat for standup, takedowns and ground grappling?
 
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dvcochran

dvcochran

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Follow @DANNY'sT 's posts. I look forward to hear where he got his 1-1/2" thick mats.
The 7/8" thick tiles we have used for years are very good for standup and grappling. I would think the thicker the better for takedown. I can see a very thick pad being a problem for standup.
We use what is regulation for WT. Understanding and using a standard like theirs (or you governing body) is a good idea.
It takes a while for a new tile to break in. They can be pretty slick early on.
 
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Follow @DANNY'sT 's posts. I look forward to hear where he got his 1-1/2" thick mats.
The 7/8" thick tiles we have used for years are very good for standup and grappling. I would think the thicker the better for takedown. I can see a very thick pad being a problem for standup.
We use what is regulation for WT. Understanding and using a standard like theirs (or you governing body) is a good idea.
It takes a while for a new tile to break in. They can be pretty slick early on.
Good to know and thank you.

Yes, I have been looking for an all around mat, so to speak. One that is best for all three distances.

I will check out Danny's. Thanks
 

skribs

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My guess is it's the thin mats that are the culprit. The ones we use at my school are probably 1.5" or 2" thick, and don't slide around at all. I got some 7/8" mats for at home and they slid around like crazy.
 

Gerry Seymour

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Interesting discussion, I have recently decided to purchase some mats, and it would be great to get some recommendations.

Quality wise, what would be the best mat for standup, takedowns and ground grappling?
I've worked on a few different surfaces. My favorite has been wrestling mat surfaces - no breaks in the top for toes to get stuck in, and they feel pretty good for falls. The tatami-style mats (Swaim, Zebra, etc.) I like a lot, but have some issues: they feel hard for folks learning falls, have lots of places for toes to go. I've used roll-out mats (similar to what Dollamur has), and really like them for areas where you're going to take the mats up and put them down from time to time.

What kinds of activities are you expecting the mats to be used for, and will it be the entire training area?
 

Gerry Seymour

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Follow @DANNY'sT 's posts. I look forward to hear where he got his 1-1/2" thick mats.
The 7/8" thick tiles we have used for years are very good for standup and grappling. I would think the thicker the better for takedown. I can see a very thick pad being a problem for standup.
We use what is regulation for WT. Understanding and using a standard like theirs (or you governing body) is a good idea.
It takes a while for a new tile to break in. They can be pretty slick early on.
Most commonly, 2" mats are used for standing takedowns. For repeated practice of higher falls (shoulder throw/seoi nage, for instance), I'll throw a second layer down sometimes (just cheap 4x8' folding mats on top of whatever the main mat surface is).
 

skribs

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Most commonly, 2" mats are used for standing takedowns. For repeated practice of higher falls (shoulder throw/seoi nage, for instance), I'll throw a second layer down sometimes (just cheap 4x8' folding mats on top of whatever the main mat surface is).

Sometimes when we're doing rolls we break out the folding mats on top of our mat. Sometimes we don't. More often we use them as obstacles for the kids to jump, roll, or "cartwheel" (vault) over.
 

Gerry Seymour

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Sometimes when we're doing rolls we break out the folding mats on top of our mat. Sometimes we don't. More often we use them as obstacles for the kids to jump, roll, or "cartwheel" (vault) over.
For rolls, I prefer folks (after they learn to do them) use a firmer surface. I really like mats with a firm top and good absorption in the middle for that reason. New students don't like them nearly as much.
 

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You mean they're bubbling up? We had that problem before in the summer time at our old location, where they were on concrete. I think the concrete transfers the summer heat to the mats, and the warmth makes them expand. If they're right up against the wall on multiple sides, there's no room for them to expand outward, so they bubble up instead. We solved it by cutting maybe 1" off the far edge of the matted area. It took a few weeks, but the bubble slowly went down.
 
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dvcochran

dvcochran

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You mean they're bubbling up? We had that problem before in the summer time at our old location, where they were on concrete. I think the concrete transfers the summer heat to the mats, and the warmth makes them expand. If they're right up against the wall on multiple sides, there's no room for them to expand outward, so they bubble up instead. We solved it by cutting maybe 1" off the far edge of the matted area. It took a few weeks, but the bubble slowly went down.
I think you are right. We have done a few walls and it is helping. Still have to cut the edges running the other direction.
 

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