Rust removal

Grenadier

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I'm in the process of negotiating a trade, my Ruger GP-100 4" revolver (.357 magnum) for my friend's Sig P226.

Now, some people may start telling me that I'm begin unfair to my friend, since I'd be trading a 350 dollar revolver for a very nice semiauto, but before you do, I'll give a bit of background on the gun.

This Sig P226 hasn't been shot much, but has been carried a lot. It has SIg-Sauer's K-Kote (stainless steel coating), but that hasn't been of much help. The way my friend had carried it was in a leather holster, and had kept the gun in the holster for months at a time, rarely cleaning it. Add to the fact that he must have perspired a lot, and now there's some rust on the slide.

Yes, stainless steel can corrode. It simply takes a good bit longer.

I'm going to go ahead and make the trade, since I intend to polish off the rust with some TLC, and some Maas metal polish. The way I figure, I've used this procedure in cleaning rust off various carbon steel knife and sword blades, with good results.

Does anyone have any experiences they'd like to share, regarding the use of Maas (Flitz's is similar) with gun slides?
 

Tames D

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I'm interested in hearing reponses to this thread. I inherited my dad's gun collection after he passed away and one of the guns is a stainless colt .38 revolver. It's a beautiful gun but it has a little rust on the body.
 
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Grenadier

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Just an update...

The biohazard's Sig is in my possession, and I've taken a bit of time to start polishing with some Maas metal polish.

So far, so good. I've only finished about 1/4th of the affected areas so far, but at this time, all it's taking is some gentle buffing using just a piece of cheesecloth with the polish on it.

The surface underneath seems perfectly fine, now that I've wiped away the excess polish with some 91% isopropyl alcohol.

Overall, I give Maas polish two thumbs up for rust removal. It's relatively cheap (just a few dollars at your local Wal-Mart), and works effectively.

I think I can finish this mini-project in an hour or so, once I get back home. However, cleaning out the insides is going to take some more patience, since the gun is rather filthy on the inside, and I'll do a more detailed stripping and cleaning.
 

LawDog

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An old way to remove heavy encrusted rust on blue steel or on corroding stainless is to use "oooo" steel wool. When you rub it across the rusted area it will take all of the rust off without harming / maring up the blue finish or stainless steel. It is very fast but you do have to rub it lightly.
Old time shooters, the military and law enforcement have been using this method for a very long time.
 

Touch Of Death

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I'm in the process of negotiating a trade, my Ruger GP-100 4" revolver (.357 magnum) for my friend's Sig P226.

Now, some people may start telling me that I'm begin unfair to my friend, since I'd be trading a 350 dollar revolver for a very nice semiauto, but before you do, I'll give a bit of background on the gun.

This Sig P226 hasn't been shot much, but has been carried a lot. It has SIg-Sauer's K-Kote (stainless steel coating), but that hasn't been of much help. The way my friend had carried it was in a leather holster, and had kept the gun in the holster for months at a time, rarely cleaning it. Add to the fact that he must have perspired a lot, and now there's some rust on the slide.

Yes, stainless steel can corrode. It simply takes a good bit longer.

I'm going to go ahead and make the trade, since I intend to polish off the rust with some TLC, and some Maas metal polish. The way I figure, I've used this procedure in cleaning rust off various carbon steel knife and sword blades, with good results.

Does anyone have any experiences they'd like to share, regarding the use of Maas (Flitz's is similar) with gun slides?
Thank God I clicked on this thread. Take that gun in and have it conversion coated with Black Oxide. :ultracool You will never guess what I do for a living.
Sean
 
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