Polycotton vs Cotton Gi

"Dogi" is the term always used in Japan. After years of only hearing of "gi" here in the USA, that's the term I still use unless I'm talking to a Japanese. Don't want to be a crude Westerner. I also use "bokken."
 
The United States is mostly a nation of immigrants who originally did not speak English. We as a society have adopted many thing from other cultures. Sometimes the pronunciation or name changes aw we here use or adopt it. Not at all unusual. Even for adoptions from other English speaking cultures. I once hear it said that "Great Britain and the United States are two nations separated by a common language."
 
"Dogi" is the term always used in Japan. After years of only hearing of "gi" here in the USA, that's the term I still use unless I'm talking to a Japanese. Don't want to be a crude Westerner. I also use "bokken."
‘Gi’… is just the sort of sound a baby makes before it barfs 🤢🤮 ’Geeeee’.
 
‘Gi’… is just the sort of sound a baby makes before it barfs 🤢🤮 ’Geeeee’.
Mine always made a series of grunts first. Maybe it’s because they dragged their knuckles when they walked…🤔
 
and your point is........
Since it isn’t a Japanese word, or even a word really, then either call it by it’s correct name(s) or call it ‘training gear’ or ‘yogurt on your foot’…anything but ‘gheeee’ 🤢🤮
 
Okay, got a problem... I've seen other people with this issue over the years, and I've never had it myself until now. Little greenish-brown dots around the upper lapel/collar area - i.e., mold. Other people who've had this issue don't seem to care, but I'm secretly judging such people. Can the mold be removed, or is it time to retire the gi (after only 14 months of use)?
 
It can be remove…. your friend is a toothbrush to rub these things into the mould.

White Distilled Vinegar – An excellent mould-killer, diluted vinegar can be worked directly into the stain – or you can pre-soak the clothing in a bucket of water mixed with one cup of vinegar. You can also add 1-2 cups of vinegar to your washing machine per cycle to kill any mildew odours and brighten your whites.

Hydrogen Peroxide – Mix 1 part 20% hydrogen peroxide with 4 parts water to create a solution. This should only be used on organic fabrics (cotton, linen, etc.) that aren’t flame-resistant or don’t have easy-care finishes.

Borax – This water-soluble mineral is also a natural mould-killer, which you can buy as a detergent or in powder form. If you get it as a powder, mix half a cup of borax thoroughly with hot water according to instructions. Then add the solution directly into the drum of your washing machine, and launder the clothes as normal.

You could try bleach in the form of Milton’s but use sparingly and rub it in with an old or your wife’s toothbrush.
A523AC60-8BF8-4B03-81BA-227E3BC3ACBF.jpeg
 
It can be remove…. your friend is a toothbrush to rub these things into the mould.

White Distilled Vinegar – An excellent mould-killer, diluted vinegar can be worked directly into the stain – or you can pre-soak the clothing in a bucket of water mixed with one cup of vinegar. You can also add 1-2 cups of vinegar to your washing machine per cycle to kill any mildew odours and brighten your whites.

Hydrogen Peroxide – Mix 1 part 20% hydrogen peroxide with 4 parts water to create a solution. This should only be used on organic fabrics (cotton, linen, etc.) that aren’t flame-resistant or don’t have easy-care finishes.

Borax – This water-soluble mineral is also a natural mould-killer, which you can buy as a detergent or in powder form. If you get it as a powder, mix half a cup of borax thoroughly with hot water according to instructions. Then add the solution directly into the drum of your washing machine, and launder the clothes as normal.

You could try bleach in the form of Milton’s but use sparingly and rub it in with an old or your wife’s toothbrush.
View attachment 31109
Good advice.
 
It can be remove…. your friend is a toothbrush to rub these things into the mould.

White Distilled Vinegar – An excellent mould-killer, diluted vinegar can be worked directly into the stain – or you can pre-soak the clothing in a bucket of water mixed with one cup of vinegar. You can also add 1-2 cups of vinegar to your washing machine per cycle to kill any mildew odours and brighten your whites.

Hydrogen Peroxide – Mix 1 part 20% hydrogen peroxide with 4 parts water to create a solution. This should only be used on organic fabrics (cotton, linen, etc.) that aren’t flame-resistant or don’t have easy-care finishes.

Borax – This water-soluble mineral is also a natural mould-killer, which you can buy as a detergent or in powder form. If you get it as a powder, mix half a cup of borax thoroughly with hot water according to instructions. Then add the solution directly into the drum of your washing machine, and launder the clothes as normal.

You could try bleach in the form of Milton’s but use sparingly and rub it in with an old or your wife’s toothbrush.
View attachment 31109
That reminds me: I use an oscillating electric toothbrush, and it's time to change the head anyway. I'll be sure to do this with the old one before swapping it out.
 
That reminds me: I use an oscillating electric toothbrush, and it's time to change the head anyway. I'll be sure to do this with the old one before swapping it out.
So lazy! 😉
 
I came across the Arawaza Onyx Evolution, Karate GI. The description says 7oz lightweight, microfiber. Does this mean Poly-cotton?

the description says "Although extremely light, it is very resistant. It offers maximum breathing and will resist during intensive kumite training and competition while offering greatest mobility. With a luxurious appearance, will not stick, shrink nor wrinkle and dries very fast." emphasis added.

It feels like rip-stop nylon to me. very light weight. My experience with rip-stop nylon is that it is strong but does not breath.

So does anyone have any experience with this microfiber fabric? Thanks.
 
I came across the Arawaza Onyx Evolution, Karate GI. The description says 7oz lightweight, microfiber. Does this mean Poly-cotton?

the description says "Although extremely light, it is very resistant. It offers maximum breathing and will resist during intensive kumite training and competition while offering greatest mobility. With a luxurious appearance, will not stick, shrink nor wrinkle and dries very fast." emphasis added.

It feels like rip-stop nylon to me. very light weight. My experience with rip-stop nylon is that it is strong but does not breath.

So does anyone have any experience with this microfiber fabric? Thanks.
Kumite gis are not going to be made of straight cotton.

What I will say is that if you're going to buy a kumite gi, get the one made of the smooth material. Do NOT get the one made out of THIS material:

uniform-deluxe-kumite-intermediate-white-arawaza-1.jpg

You're better off sparring in a cotton kata gi than one of these.
 
I came across the Arawaza Onyx Evolution, Karate GI. The description says 7oz lightweight, microfiber. Does this mean Poly-cotton?

the description says "Although extremely light, it is very resistant. It offers maximum breathing and will resist during intensive kumite training and competition while offering greatest mobility. With a luxurious appearance, will not stick, shrink nor wrinkle and dries very fast." emphasis added.

It feels like rip-stop nylon to me. very light weight. My experience with rip-stop nylon is that it is strong but does not breath.

So does anyone have any experience with this microfiber fabric? Thanks.
Microfibre is a ubiquitous, synthetic material often used in household cleaning cloths and it does a good job in that context acting like a microscopic squeegee to sweep away moisture and dirt. With this in mind, I tried a microfibre towel for my daily shower. It was awful as it didn’t seem to soak up all the water from my skin leaving me feeling clammy and having to air dry before putting on my clothing.

I can only imagine a microfibre keikogi although durable, would be similarly unpleasant to wear due to it’s poor wicking properties.
 

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