So it's threaded allllll the way to the quillion? For a sword, that concerns me. If I chose not to go full tang, I'd leave the tang at least 3/4 of the width, and cut down just the last inch to thread on a pommel. I'm partial to non-threaded pommels though. Slot the pommel. Cut the tang to length, so it protrudes just a bit. Heat. Hammer. Polish. This does mean your pommel needs to be of a material that matches the appearance of the rest of the sword, though. It would look terrible if you did it with a brass pommel on a steel tang.I’m actually slathering the entire tang in JB Weld, sliding up the guard, sliding up the grip, screwing a 1/4 inch hex nut behind the grip, putting the pommel behind the grip (space cut in pommel to receive the nut), then a final recessed nut behind the pommel, cut of level with tue back of the pommel and polished smooth. All underneath is covered I. JB Weld, including hex nuts and threading. Nothing will take thato apart without destroying it. No moisture will get inside. Photos taken From the sword I am working with right now, I interrupted training to respond to this.
The JB weld will fill the gaps, the same as brazing. And no doubt is easier.