I made a bokken

bluekey88

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Note: I'm not exactly sure what the proper forum for this post is...so if the mods feel it should be moced, that's cool.

anyway, I decided to put my woodworking skills to the test. After looking at some plans on bokken carving, I decided to try one on my own. I like the two wood effect...it's sturdy, though I may carve down the blade edge a bit more. I used quarter sawn white oak and brazilian cherry. Wanted to go with hickory, but it's hard to find in this neck of the woods for some reason. Purple heart or bloodwood would also look really cool.

So, what do you guys think? I'm also going to try my hand at a nice hardwood Bo and Jo. Have any idea that could be done using a router rather than a lathe.

Peace,
Erik
 

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bluekey88

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Nice job!
My sensei does similar work http://sdksupplies.netfirms.com/
Do you have any plans for it? What are you using it for?

No official plans. Get 2 pieces of good hardwood (try to go for a quartersawn grain orientation) that are 3/4" thick, 48" long and 1 1/2" wide and glue them together with lots of clamps over a form to get the curve right. Let that set up for 4 hours.

Using a 1/2" round over bit in a router, knock off the 4 courners. Pick one end to be the handle end and trim that square. Measure for the tsuba placement using the three hand technique (Place the tsube 3 hands from the end of the bokken). Then measure the blade length. Place a measureing stick on the ground while you stand at relaxed attention. then reach your hand down and grasp, then relax. You should now have the measuring stick clear the floor by about an inch. this length should be the blade length. Measure this out from where you placed the tsuba and trim.

Now, using a 45 degree chamfer bit in the router, route the top of the blade from the tip to the tsuba. Then shape the tip using trim saw, sander or whatever, shape the tip. I'd also recommend using a sander, block plane or something to further shape up the blade side of the blade (I haven't done this yet..but plan to).

Sand with 220 grit sand paper to ease all the sharp edges and smooth out any chips.

Finish with hand rubbed finish of teak oil.

This is perfect for striking and full contact stuff. Heavy, sturdy. Better than the $20 ones you get from AMWA or karate depot....cheaper than what i'd pay for a quality hardwood bokken,

gonna use it un my bujinkan budo taijutsu class. May also gift some to my instructors as they've got a nice visual appeal.

Peace,
Erik
 

Sukerkin

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Very nicely put together - take a bow for carpentry :).

My only criticism, as a JSA practioner, is that it is straight (or so it looks from the photo's).
 

tshadowchaser

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Nice looking

how dose it feel in your hands. how is the weight distribution
 
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bluekey88

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Very nicely put together - take a bow for carpentry :).

My only criticism, as a JSA practioner, is that it is straight (or so it looks from the photo's).

The bokken I used to lay out the curve (a $20 one from Asian World) waws pretty straight. there is a slight curve to it though. Next time around, I'm goping to increase teh curve ever so slightly when I glue up the blank.

Peace,
Erik
 
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bluekey88

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Nice looking

how dose it feel in your hands. how is the weight distribution


I think it feels great in my hands. It's solid...not too heavy for me though. (although my friend who is like half my size thought it was too big). I also think the balance is pretty good. I set the dimesnions to my body based on a formula I got from an Aikidoka/woodwoker who makes hsi own bokken. I ultimately did shape up the "blade" more and took off some mass there.

I'm pleased with how it cam out. It's easy enough to make that I'll probably do some more and they'll only get better with each try.

Peace,
Erik
 

tshadowchaser

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good for you.
Like every thing else you will only get better at makeing them the more make.
If it feel correct for you then I would say you did an exceptional job on the first one
 

Chris Parker

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Agreed, very nice. I've made a couple of items myself, and it does give a wonderful sense of pride when your opponents fall to your very own weapon...

Very nicely put together - take a bow for carpentry :).

My only criticism, as a JSA practioner, is that it is straight (or so it looks from the photo's).

Just to counter this, some schools actually do use a straight bokken, most notably the Kashima Shinryu. The theory used is that the kenjutsu in the Kashima Shinryu relies on constantly moving the blade, and keeping control by having contact with the opponents sword. As a result, the Kashima Shinryu tends to have a bit more impact involved than other ryu, and by having a straight bokken, they could keep the structural integrity higher (a curve goes across the grain, lending itself to splits, the straight goes in line with the grain, making it stronger).

It is also argued by practitioners of Kashima Shinryu that the curve is of minimal impact in their use of the blade, so a straight bokken is not much of a compromise. This works well for them, but other schools suchas Tenshin Shoden Katori Shinto Ryu and Kukishinden Ryu Happo Biken utilise the curve quite effectively, making it essential to their use of the sword. So it'll really just depend on the ryuha in question, and the use.
 

jks9199

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Just a note... a curve doesn't have to fight the grain.

The easiest way is to use steam bending. Or careful would selection. (Or, if you've really got time -- shape the tree as it grows! ;) )
 

Sukerkin

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Ah, I sort of assumed that all here knew that the way to form bokken that resist splintering and opening grain was to steam bend them rather than carve them.

I really like Jim's idea of growing the tree to the right shape in the frst place tho'. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that some of the expensive examples are made that way :D.
 

Chris Parker

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Agreed, Sukerin and JKS, I was simply repeating the arguments I have encountered from Kashima Shinryu. I personally prefer a curve in all my swords (yes, even the ninja ones!)... but if anyone here wants to argue with Tsukahara Bokuden, be my guest!
 
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bluekey88

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There will eb a greater curve in the next one I make. I didn't account for the amount of "springback" from the glue up...plus, as I mentioned before. The Bokken I used to lay out the curgve was pretty straight as well.

Ah well, hopefuly, in the future, I'll be abel to set up a proper steaming rig and do it right...but in the meantime, one does what one must. :)

Thankfully, using this lamination process and careful atention to grain direction, I can avoid tearout and the like.

Peace,
Erik

Peace,
Erik
 

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