While it has been a decade since I was in Korea (96-97), I noticed some customs and social behavior that was a surprise to a westerner.

There is a huge difference between the city life (which is near modern), and the countryside which looks like you are back in the three-kingdoms period.

In the city, like Seoul, modern buildings and giant billboards make it look like any major city in America, or other parts of the world. However, many of the buildings for residence housing, and merchants were built on steep hillsides, with little to no modifications to the landscape. The buildings are build on a steep slope, with narrowly paved paths between them that look like asphalt poured over the undeveloped hillside. These paths are usually lined with parked cars, making barely enough room for one-way traffic on a two way road. Meeting another vehicle half way up a steep incline means some pretty tricky maneuvering.

It seemed that many of the drivers rarely obeyed traffic signals, except when necessary. A hailed Taxi driver would slow down to hear the pedestrian shout out their desired destination, then speed off if they didn't want to take them to that location, leaving the person there to hail another cab who would do the same thing.

Most women, especially teens and young college age, would walk the streets during the day or night in pairs or groups of three, often with arms hooked together like little schoolgirls. Elderly people often would sit on edges of sidewalks in old, worn, and slightly dirty traditional style clothes that looked like they had been sitting there since the end of the Korean War.

Many small shops in Inchon, and Irondong town were run by elderly people who spent their entire days in an open storefront on some back alley, selling whatever goods their trade offered, often items made by hand, or food you would be able to identify if you weren't a long time resident.

Nam Dae Mun Market is a big outdoor shopping area in downtown Seoul which winds through the sidewalks and alleys of many tall buildings. Tables set up in the middle, and open store fronts along the sides where the wares are all displayed (made in Korea, made in China, made in Taiwan, and many "made in the USA"). I wanted to shop for traditional Korean items, but found more stores selling USA made goods then I do in America. Prices to foreigners are often higher than to Koreans (not much is marked - you have to ask "eolma imnikka?" (how much is it), and they will tell you. If you know what you are doing, you can usually bargain with them and bring the price down.

I noticed that they drive on the right side of the road, but when walking up and down flights of stairs, most people keep to the left (very confusing). At intersections, pedestrians face each other on opposites of the street like race-horses at the gate. Even though the cross-walk has arrows for keeping right as you pass each other, they charge in a wall mob like two medieval armies rushing into battle.

It is a nation of courtesy (on the surface). Virtually every shop and store you walk in, you are greeted by one or more employees with a casual "Annyeong haseyo!" (how are you or "are you at peace"). Honorific form is "Annyeong hashimnikka." Most people smile at you, and treat you like an honored guest, but I noticed that many elderly people can be rude and very assertive. It seems that they feel younger people should get out of their way, let them cut in line at the check out lane, and not give the elderly and guff!

Historical museums, temples, shrines and monuments to famous dead people abound in Korea (I suppose they do anywhere), but they often do not let you take pictures or videos - - especially in some museums, and at the tombs of respected historical figures. They light incense, place it in a dish, kneel and pray. Many tourist sites all over, ancient villages preserved, and Cheju Island is a major tourist spot. You can park at any of these places for free, but it usually costs 800 won (about a buck) to leave the parking lot - - real tricky!

Some modern places have regular plumbing, but often times, men and women share the same facilities at the same time. The urinals line the walls, and the stalls have a no seat - - just a hole to squat over, then flush the water with the lever. Even the airport was a bit of a shock with separate restrooms for men and women, but the female cleaning lady just walks right in while everyone is doing their "business" and starts mopping the floor. There are public bath-houses where men and women go to bath naked in bathing pools (I didn't visit one of those, unfortunately! :mst:)

Well, it would be interesting to hear from those who are there now if they observe the same things. Oh yeah, I just remembered. Korea was the first place I have ever seen people walking with umbrellas in January because it was snowing! I'm used to umbrella = rain, not snow. Plus, many of them wore surgical style face masks to cover their mouths in cold weather. A bit peculiar from my perspective.

It's a nice place to visit, but I wouldn't want to live there.

CM D.J. Eisenhart

While it has been a decade since I was in Korea (96-97), I noticed some customs and social behavior that was a surprise to a westerner.
Sir, if you don’t mind, I will fill in with my observations after being here a year. I hope I’m not stepping on your toes! Your observations are almost all still true!!
There is a huge difference between the city life (which is near modern), and the countryside which looks like you are back in the three-kingdoms period.
Exactly right. In a small city like Gunsan, I am constantly amazed by the contrasts. It is not rare to see someone who lives in a rundown shack, selling rice on the roadside as a living, but who is talking on an $800.00 cell phone. Most people live in either high rise apartment complexes or in run down shacks of some sort. There is of course the upperclass who most of which have very American looking homes.
In the city, like Seoul, modern buildings and giant billboards make it look like any major city in America, or other parts of the world. However, many of the buildings for residence housing, and merchants were built on steep hillsides, with little to no modifications to the landscape. The buildings are build on a steep slope, with narrowly paved paths between them that look like asphalt poured over the undeveloped hillside. These paths are usually lined with parked cars, making barely enough room for one-way traffic on a two way road. Meeting another vehicle half way up a steep incline means some pretty tricky maneuvering.
Koreans LOVE their florescent lighting. Seoul is FILLED with bright flashing lights of any shop you can imagine. Many of which are on every floor of a building. Koreans are very into smaller stores who sell either a HUGE variety of things or one very specific thing. Outside of any city, the majority of the land is made up of rice paddies. Basically if there is land without a home on it….there is a crop.
It seemed that many of the drivers rarely obeyed traffic signals, except when necessary. A hailed Taxi driver would slow down to hear the pedestrian shout out their desired destination, then speed off if they didn't want to take them to that location, leaving the person there to hail another cab who would do the same thing.
Well, things have gone downhill there. Koreans are very possibly the worst drivers on the planet. I felt more safe driving in NYC than on most roads in Korea. Traffic signals are suggestions. This is complicated by the fact that there are very very seldom any police patrolling the roads. In fact, in some cases, stopping at a traffic light is more dangerous than not stopping. I’ve seen plenty of cars rear ended simply because they stopped at the red light. The locals know which ones they don’t need to stop at. Between Kunsan Air Base and Kunsan City, there are no less than 7 traffic lights that aren’t at an intersection. No cross street, no major business….just a random stop light.

Taxi drivers are by FAR the most insane drivers. Last night, I was in a cab that was blaring American hip hop music, going 140 KPH, passing on sidewalks, middle lane, OPPOSING LANE………and oh yeah, racing another Taxi.
Most women, especially teens and young college age, would walk the streets during the day or night in pairs or groups of three, often with arms hooked together like little schoolgirls. Elderly people often would sit on edges of sidewalks in old, worn, and slightly dirty traditional style clothes that looked like they had been sitting there since the end of the Korean War.
Dead on. Except Men also walk arm in arm and hold hands. Oh yeah….and Pink is DEFINITELY not considered a female color here.
Most I wanted to shop for traditional Korean items, but found more stores selling USA made goods then I do in America. Prices to foreigners are often higher than to Koreans (not much is marked - you have to ask "eolma imnikka?" (how much is it), and they will tell you. If you know what you are doing, you can usually bargain with them and bring the price down.
When I went home for midtour, I found a small store in a mall that sold “Asian goods.” Most of what I say in that small store are the EXACT same things that are sold in the majority of “traditional Korean goods” stores. Haggling is a way of life. ALL prices are negotiable unless you are in one of the huge department stores. Lotte is one of the most popular. Imagine an 8-10 story tower with a grocery store, full department store, movie theater, restaurants….Well, EVERYTHING. Super Wal-Mart on steroids. You can shop in Lotte or E-Mart and no other store and find everything you will ever need.
It is a nation of courtesy (on the surface). Virtually every shop and store you walk in, you are greeted by one or more employees with a casual "Annyeong haseyo!" (how are you or "are you at peace"). Honorific form is "Annyeong hashimnikka." Most people smile at you, and treat you like an honored guest, but I noticed that many elderly people can be rude and very assertive. It seems that they feel younger people should get out of their way, let them cut in line at the check out lane, and not give the elderly and guff!
Agreed completely – the courtesy is mostly on the surface. The waiters and waitresses are amazingly courteous and extremely nice to everyone. Most shops are also very nice to you, but in some smaller areas, they don’t welcome Americans as much. You have to get pretty rural and out of tourist areas for that though. The Elderly do rule the roads. They always have right of way. The basic rule of thumb is that individually, Koreans are courteous to a fault individually and in small groups….in public and in large groups, they are rude and inconsiderate by American standards (mostly just a cultural difference).
Historical museums, temples, shrines and monuments to famous dead people abound in Korea (I suppose they do anywhere), but they often do not let you take pictures or videos - - especially in some museums, and at the tombs of respected historical figures. They light incense, place it in a dish, kneel and pray. Many tourist sites all over, ancient villages preserved, and Cheju Island is a major tourist spot. You can park at any of these places for free, but it usually costs 800 won (about a buck) to leave the parking lot - - real tricky!
One note….There are few cemetaries here. The dead are buried on any hillside with available land.
Well, it would be interesting to hear from those who are there now if they observe the same things. Oh yeah, I just remembered. Korea was the first place I have ever seen people walking with umbrellas in January because it was snowing! I'm used to umbrella = rain, not snow. Plus, many of them wore surgical style face masks to cover their mouths in cold weather. A bit peculiar from my perspective.
Not just cold weather actually….Koreans wear surgical masks if they are sick or are around sick people, in cold weather, are worried about getting sick, young old….In any given day walking around Kunsan, I will see anywhere from 5-20 people wearing surgical masks.

Hopefully I’ve added something useful to your very accurate first post! Thanks for starting out. I’ve been thinking of starting a post like this, but didn’t know where to start. I’ve been here for a year and I love the country. The landscape, the food, the people, the culture, the history, Korea is a wonderful place to spend a year. But I can’t wait to get out of here!!!!

My wife's from Suweon. I've only been there once, back in 1996. I remember it pretty much as you describe. I found it fascinating and hope to go back very soon.

Sir, if you don’t mind, I will fill in with my observations after being here a year. I hope I’m not stepping on your toes!
Not at all! This is what I had hoped for this thread. Anyone who had ever been to Korea, or is there at present (or in the future) can share their experiences and observations. Feel free to agree with what others have seen, or state opposing points of view, but everyone takes back something a little different from their visit.

Hopefully I’ve added something useful to your very accurate first post! Thanks for starting out.
Yes, you have! Those who have never been to Korea, but perhaps have always wanted to, or just wondered about what it is like might enjoy reading what others have experienced. It is an eye-opener, considering that westerners often take our modern living for granted, and don't know about the little quirks that exist in the back streets, and rural areas of what might be considered a split social experience - - modernization mixed with 3rd World poverty.

A few more things I remembered are that the night-life resembled my teen years in the 70's. Much like the disco era, dance clubs, dress styles, and behavior reminded me of the past U.S. in a time-warp from 1950 to 1980. Some of the "rough" looking street-gang members had white t-shirts with a pack of cigarettes rolled up in the sleeves and a cigarette dangling loose from their lips like James Dean or something from a Hollywood movie.

I also noticed that a lot of the city sidewalk shops put quite a bit of expensive merchandise out on tables just outside their store front. Seemed that no one was watching it much, and no one seemed to be stealing anything. Much different than security concerns in America.

I remember the flurry of motorized scooters whipping in and out of traffic, cutting up onto the sidewalks and weaving past pedestrians to stop and deliver whatever was stored in a wire basket on the rear of the bike (newspapers, beverages, fuel, etc). These driver's wore small helmets and were "on a mission." It seemed that it was their lively-hood to get from place to place as fast as they could. Then, they would whip the bike around, cut across six lanes of traffic, going the wrong way, and zip off to another destination. Very bizarre behavior - - from my point of view!!!
:)

CM D.J. Eisenhart

Two biggest cultural differences comes from...my favorite topic....eating. First off, Koreans eat all meals with communal food. All of the food comes and sits in the center of the table and everyone eats it. Generally the oldest person orders and eats first.

Second, Koreans don't drink. They will bring a 2 quart water jug for a table of 6, it gets dumped into cups and no one touches it for the entire meal. We ask for more water and they look at us like we're crazy.

Koreans also have no concept of personal space. "Excuse me" is not really used, either if someone is in your way OR when they want your attention. When a Korean wants past, they will push past you. To get your attention, they say in Korean "HERE!"

Again, all just cultural differences. To a Korean this is everyday life. To an American, this is what we call CULTURE SHOCK!

Last Fearner and MBuzzy, I really enjoyed your posts. Very insightful. You seemed to both agree on one point I found interesting.

It is a nation of courtesy (on the surface). Virtually every shop and store you walk in, you are greeted by one or more employees with a casual "Annyeong haseyo!" (how are you or "are you at peace"). Honorific form is "Annyeong hashimnikka." Most people smile at you, and treat you like an honored guest, but I noticed that many elderly people can be rude and very assertive. It seems that they feel younger people should get out of their way, let them cut in line at the check out lane, and not give the elderly and guff!

Agreed completely – the courtesy is mostly on the surface. The waiters and waitresses are amazingly courteous and extremely nice to everyone. Most shops are also very nice to you, but in some smaller areas, they don’t welcome Americans as much. You have to get pretty rural and out of tourist areas for that though. The Elderly do rule the roads. They always have right of way. The basic rule of thumb is that individually, Koreans are courteous to a fault individually and in small groups….in public and in large groups, they are rude and inconsiderate by American standards (mostly just a cultural difference).

I've not been to Korea, but my best friend married a Korean a few years ago. Her parents/family came over. They were speaking Korean in front of him, and his fiancee started crying. Found out later they were insulting him quite dramatically in his face, but did not have the courtesy to use his language (they all speak english). I don't care about what culture you are from, that is just plain rude. I'm hoping this is more the exception than the rule, but experience so far has not shown that.

On another point, he is learning Korean now. I wonder if he will tell the in-laws, or just shock them one day by responding? LOL I wold prefer the later :)

It seemed that many of the drivers rarely obeyed traffic signals, except when necessary. A hailed Taxi driver would slow down to hear the pedestrian shout out their desired destination, then speed off if they didn't want to take them to that location, leaving the person there to hail another cab who would do the same thing.
I found this one humorous :) I've been in a few countries like that. Driving in Cairo is always exciting. Its hard finding a car panel that does not have any dings on it!

It seemed that many of the drivers rarely obeyed traffic signals, except when necessary. A hailed Taxi driver would slow down to hear the pedestrian shout out their desired destination, then speed off if they didn't want to take them to that location, leaving the person there to hail another cab who would do the same thing.
I found this humorous as well :) I know some people like that. What do you do w/ really spicy food? Suffer until the meal is done? Or if the food is dry? Or you swallow some the wrong way?

Anyways, this thread had been interesting... thanks for sharing guys :)

I agree with most of Last Fearner and MBuzzy's comments. I was stationed at Camp Essayons, which is in Uijeongbu. Traffic signals were almost never obeyed, especially at late at night! One of my first driving experiences was taking a 5-ton military vehicle up to Munsan. Talk about being nervous!

When I lived there, my Korean was pretty fluent (now not so much, but anywho) - and being on the subway was a riot. To listen as they talk about you because you are obviously not Korean and be able to understand is priceless.

I only had two unpleasant experiences on the subway while there. The first was after an overnight pass - I had stayed in Seoul for the night for a farewell party and hopped on the subway early the next morning. It was packed, but I finally found a space big enough for three people. An old Korean man came and sat beside me, then proceeded to lay his upper body down. He reeked of alcohol. As the subway would stop and start, his body was sliding around. One time he slid into me, hitting his head on my thigh. He sat up and started cussing me and spit at my shoe! I only know one bad phrase in Korean, and was tempted to use it, but I didn't. I just got up and walked through to the other car. The other bad incident wasn't by a native Korean, but by another foreigner who tried to "feel me up" as I got off of the subway with a few other Americans.

I absolutely love the country though. I loved going into Itaewon and haggling prices for the souviners to send home. There was one buffet close to our camp that we would always go to.

Ah, the memories.

I had the fun experience of going over during Christmas time to visit my in laws. My wife was already over there. I had to meet her in Suwon so I hoped a train to get there. Since it was Christmas I had presents for the neices and nephews and one was a Tickle Me Elmo, when they first came out.

As I was on the train a haraboji came in and I offered my seat to him. I still had my bags next to where he was sitting and he accidently bumped it and it set off the Elmo doll "That tickles" followed by the satanic laugh that it does. All eyes were on me at that point wondering what the hell that was. It was hard not to burst out laughing at the shocked look on the haraboji's face when he hit it.

When I finally got to Suwon station I got off the train and started looking for my wife and her family in a sea of Koreans. It only took me 15 minutes to realize "Why the hell am I looking for them. I'm the one that sticks out around here." So I put my back against wall and they spoted me in 5 minutes.